Do you remember a tiny eatery called Vietnam on North 11th Street? If you haven't been there for a while, you'll be amazed at how that 28-seat Formica-festooned hole in the wall has been transformed into one of Philadelphia's most attractive restaurants. Originally opened in May, 1984 by Nhu Lai and his wife Thuyen Luu, Vietnam catered to a discerning group of cognoscenti who valued the delicate but delectable morsels prepared in the cramped kitchen.

In 1989, the Lais' son Benny took over the family business. Slowly, he began making changes. He bought the building next door and expanded his domain. He added two floors. And he spearheaded what may well be the most dazzling metamorphosis in the city's culinary history. Designed by the prominent Philadelphia artist Jesse Gardner, the new Vietnam features an inviting exterior with shuttered windows and the charm of a French bistro. The interior, bathed in soft golden light, is complemented by lush plants, warm dark woods, stainless steel accents, and Gardner's impressive photographs of the Lais' native land.

Then there's the food. With its authentic but creative menu – plus such unique features as La Colombe espresso, desserts by a Miel pastry chef, and one of the town's best stocked bars – Vietnam provides an experience you'll want to enjoy again and again. And again!